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Heat pump water heaters will produce a non-acidic condensate during normal operation that must be drained. Since heat pump water heaters transfer heat from the air, they also need adequate air flow.

This can be accomplished by installing the unit in a larger space greater than cubic feet or providing additional air exchange through ducting or louvers to connect to an adjacent space. Photo courtesy of A. Water heater manufacturers take things one step further by creating apps that provide enhanced connectivity. For example, A. It provides personalized recommendations to help professionals identify the best option for their customer based on their individual needs.

Specific temperatures and operating modes can be set from a smart phone. Customers of utilities with time-of-use rates can further reduce their utility bill by having a heat pump water heater operate when electricity is least expensive. Utilities can benefit from apps like this too with new demand response capabilities. Once the homeowner opts into the utility demand response program, the water heater can respond to schedules based on electricity prices or signals sent directly from the utility, allowing the water heater to be used as a grid asset and also helping to reduce utility bills.

Manufacturers continue to introduce more efficient options to the water heating industry, often relying on connectivity and IoT technology to make the product applicable in a variety of settings.

Only the indoor unit and the back-up heat will run. On all-electric systems, this will provide enough heat to keep you going until the Heat Pump can be fixed. If you have an all-electric heat pump, then the answer is a definite Yes!

It is much more expensive to run your heat pump on Emergency Heat. And as the name implies, should only be run in an emergency until your heat pump can be repaired.

Now if you have Gas or Oil heat for your backup system, then the answer isn't so clear. It depends on the cost of your fuel, the efficiency of your heating system, compared to your electric rate and so on. But it is safe to say that the price increase won't be as much as an all-electric system.

As explained earlier, the Emergency Heat light will be on whenever your thermostat is set to Emergency Heat. But if your thermostat is not set to emergency heat and the light is on, then that usually indicates a problem with your heat pump. For more on this issue, see: Thermostat red light flashing or stays on. Please keep in mind that the information found on our website is provided free of charge and Hannabery HVAC does not assume any liability resulting from the information we provide.

Most heat pumps will run constantly during the cold weather. This means that it is normal for your heat pump to be running constantly during winter when the temperatures are at or below 30 degrees.

However, if the heat pump is running constantly in the cooling mode during the summer, then there could be a problem. Navid Swagat Explainer. At what temperature do heat pumps become ineffective?

As the outdoor air temperature drops, the heat pump needs to work harder, so it becomes less efficient. Preben Zolotkov Pundit.

Is it cheaper to leave heat pump on all day? According to Energywise, you shouldn't leave your heat pump on all day. As the weather gets colder, it might be tempting to leave your heat pump on all day. Hoerning said heat pumps are the most efficient way of using electricity to heat your home, but there are many ways people could use them more efficiently.

Hichame Hitpass Pundit. How do I know if my nest has auxiliary heat? Pull off your thermostat's display. If you have wires in both the W1 and W2 connectors of your Nest thermostat, your system is a dual fuel system, and won't use Heat Pump Balance. Elbachir Bagandaliev Pundit. Why does my auxiliary heat stay on?

Auxiliary heat is the electric heat strip in your air handler that is supplemental heat. Alicia Elbeshausen Pundit. Should my outside unit run when heat is on? Heat Pump Operation. Angelika Runa Pundit. Why is my heat pump blowing cold air? You see, a heat pump heats your home by moving heat from the outdoor air into your home. But virtually all modern heat pump and multi-stage thermostats can maintain the temperature within one degree by tracking the trajectory and rate of temperature change in fractional degrees.

In that case, up to 5 degrees of setback is no problem. I have a heat pump and this I have a heat pump and this winter has been the worst. I know the temps have been degrees lower but my bill is now 5x what it has been. We replaced the thermostat this fall and I believe that is the culprit. Now the new thermostat kicks it on automatically every time it believes it needs it. I need help NOW. I need a thermostat that I can prevent the aux heat from coming on until it is a true emergency.

What do you recommend. What model is the honeywell pictured above? Barb, Barb, The above thermostat looks like a Honeywell series. The series has several different variations. If you look on the back of the thermostat that you have, it should give the model number it may be in a different location depending on the manufacturer. Now as far as your issue, it could be not wired right or if it is similar to the above, it may not be programmed correctly.

There are many settings in some thermostats that can alter the performance. Not sure if I can help much over the Net because it would require a bunch of back and forth to get the issue resolved. But if you click the link on my name below it will take to to my website and you can call me and I will talk you through the set up. I would be happy to help you get this resolved.

I have seen thermostats set up improperly way too many times to count and costing to customer way too much or not getting proper comfort. David, David, In regards to your earlier post, I do agree that at 40 or 50 degrees that the heat pump can recover from the set back. That is why I said it that way.

I wanted to minimize the complexity that would occur when it was warmer. Most people have single stage heat pumps with an early version digital thermostat. So I was communicating my thoughts to those types of consumers.

But using an outdoor thermostat thermistor is ideal to lock out the electric back up above a certain temperature. Unfortunately, at least in my area most clients do not want to spend the extra money on a thermostat that gives them that flexibility. Additionally, I find it very difficult for most people as well as clients to really get the concept of some of the newer technology put into their thermostats. My solution is to simplify the explanation as much as possible so that most people can understand it and think with it.

Joe, an outdoor lock-out e Joe, an outdoor lock-out e. It has a turn-pot to set the cut-out temperature and simply interrupts the Aux control wire between stat and air handler. When the temperature drops When the temperature drops into the low teens an below, my HP cannot keep up. I had a tech come out and he said both systems were working properly. He recommended that I put the system in emergency heat and replace the t-stat with one that has an emergency heat selection.

Do I need a t-stat that has an emergency heat selection? How would I know if the heat strips were wired correctly? You should only use the emergency setting if the heat pump fails.

The tech gave you bad advice. Virtually all heat pump stats, no matter the age, have both an Emergency switch and an automatic Aux mode although with older stats, the control logic that activates Aux may be poorly implemented.

The outlet temperature with and without Aux heat depends on outdoor temp, wattage of electric heat strips and CFM setting. If you contact me off list, I can assist with further troubleshooting. My best advice is to find another tech.

There has been several times There has been several times that I would wake up in the early morning hours and notice that my furnace switch over to Emergency Heat. The reason why I notice this, is because it signals a red light. Lisa, if the red light comes Lisa, if the red light comes on automatically then that signifies the thermostat is calling for auxiliary heat. Yours apparently uses the same LED for both.

Functionally, there are three differences between EM and AUX… 1 EM is a manual setting, whereas AUX is automatic 2 the heat pump outdoor unit remains off in EM mode 3 electric strips or other supplemental heat source operates as first stage heat in EM mode, whereas the heat pump operates as first stage in AUX mode.

Do you mean the the physical Do you mean the the physical switch has moved over to the Emergency Heat setting? This is confusing since someone would have to do that manually. What brand of thermostat do you have? Is it possible that you are actually running in Auxiliary Heat when the red light is on?

When this situation occurs, is the outdoor section of the heat pump running? I have a very similar problem I have a very similar problem to Barb… We have a heat pump, with an electric furnace.

We have lived in this home for two years without incident we left the settings the way the where when we moved in , and did not have a problem… until this winter. A few months back we had our furnace serviced and our vents cleaned. Another person came in from the company and fiddled around after we called to ask what they had done, and now, the auxiliary heat keeps coming on I have never noticed it being an issue prior to this.

We currently have things set to auto, auto fan, and 21 degrees no schedule. How can we make sure the auxiliary heat does not kick in? The heat pump is only a few years old, and everything was just fine before the service. ANY advice would be so appreciated! We are so unbelievably anxious to get our next bill!

I beleive that our HP cycle times are longer now due to only producing 80 degrees at the vent, in the past, I recall the air feeling much warmer even with no AUX running. If so, this would only affect operation when outside temps are well above freezing. In cold climates, I specify natural gas Aux heat dual fuel furnace or hydronic fan coil. Depending on local energy costs, it typically costs just as much to heat with propane as with straight electric heat.

Infiltration is typically the biggest contributor to heat loss so air sealing should always be the first step in reducing the supplemental fraction. I recommend having an energy auditor do a baseline blower door test and thermal scans. And then consider insulation upgrades.